The Best Adult Acne Skincare Routine, Dermatologists Say

Treatments for adult acne have a delicate task: you want a routine that addresses breakouts, not to mention hydrates and protects your skin from the damaging effects of aging. Here is an expert-backed skincare guide designed to manage acne, support your skin barrier, and tackle fine lines at the same time.

Why Does Acne Happen in Adulthood?

If you thought pimples were something of the past, adulthood has other plans! Hormonal acne-very common among adults-is usually caused by fluctuations related to menstruation, pregnancy or changing birth control. "Hormones, especially stress hormones like cortisol, can increase oil production, leading to clogged pores and breakouts," explains NYC dermatologist Dr. Howard Sobel. Stress itself is a culprit, as we all know how an annoying zit can magically appear just when we need it least.

Aging also reduces the normal cell turnover of the skin, where dead cells accumulate and clog pores, leading to more pimples. The twist here is that an overzealous skincare routine exacerbates acne by tearing at your skin barrier and causing inflammation. "It's not about stripping your skin of oil with adult acne," says dermatologist Joshua Zeichner in New York. You want gentle, hydrating ingredients to keep your skin barrier intact, because overly dry skin is more prone to irritation and breakouts."

The Power Trio: Must-Have Ingredients for Acne

Salicylic Acid: This beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) is an oil-soluble powerhouse that unclogs pores, dissolves excess oil, and gently exfoliates to prevent dead skin buildup. It's perfect for treating blackheads and whiteheads.

Benzoyl Peroxide: A proven acne treatment for decades, benzoyl peroxide targets acne-causing bacteria. While effective, some recent safety concerns have been raised about its breakdown into benzene under specific conditions.

Adapalene (Retinoid): Now OTC in the 0.1% formula, adapalene causes cell turnover, thereby preventing pores from clogging while at the same time stimulating collagen, which will aid to give a better texture to the skin over time and reduce fine lines.

Is Benzoyl Peroxide Safe for Acne?

In March 2024, lab testing raised some questions about benzoyl peroxide (BP) products, as they may release benzene—a potential carcinogen—if exposed to high temperatures. Dr. Zeichner assures that if BP products are stored and used correctly (i.e., low concentration, proper storage, and discarded by the expiration date), they should be safe. Still, if you’re hesitant, there are effective alternatives without BP.

AM Routine for Clear Skin

"A simple morning routine, as recommended by your dermatologist, will keep breakouts at bay without overwhelming your skin," says dermatologist Dr. Elyse Love at Spring Street Dermatology in NYC. "Over-cleansing strips away natural oils, which irritates skin and may trigger more breakouts." Here's a step-by-step guide:

Step 1: Cleanse (or Just Rinse)

The temptation is to scrub away at breakouts right off the bat, but this can make things worse. If you don't have oily skin in the morning, just rinse with lukewarm water. However, if you feel oily, use a gentle cleanser, such as Neutrogena Fragrance-Free Ultra Gentle Foaming Cleanser or CeraVe's Hydrating Cleanser.

Step 2: Use a Treatment Product that Attacks Acne

If you washed your face, this is when you apply a treatment product with an acne-killing ingredient. A serum with 1.5-2% salicylic acid, such as SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense or The Ordinary's Salicylic Acid 2% Solution, is great for maintaining pores. For red, inflamed acne, a benzoyl peroxide treatment like La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo can be used (5.5% concentration helps minimize irritation); use it as a spot treatment on problem areas.

Step 3: Moisturize with SPF

Moisturize, even if you have oily skin. For light, oil-free options, consider Cetaphil Derma Control Oil Absorbing Moisturizer SPF 30 or EltaMD UV Clear Broad Spectrum SPF 46. Daily SPF is necessary, particularly if you are using any treatments for acne such as benzoyl peroxide or retinoids that put your skin at risk of irritation from the sun's rays. Sunlight may also exacerbate inflammation caused by acne, so protecting your skin from additional irritation is a must.

PM Routine for a Brighter, Healthier Complexion

Cleaning at night is to remove the day and promote skin repair and renewal. Follow this simple evening skincare guide:

Step 1: Cleanse

Rinse your face to wipe away makeup, oil, and other impurities after a long day. Salicylic acid and gel-based cleanser Vichy Normaderm Phytoaction Daily Deep Cleansing Gel are great to cleanse your skin. Double cleansing is also highly effective in cleaning your skin: begin with micellar water, such as Avene or Bioderma, then use your main cleanser.

Step 2: Moisturize

Even if your skin feels oily, a light, non-comedogenic moisturizer is crucial, especially after using acne treatments that can dry out the skin. Look for hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or ceramides, which hydrate without clogging pores. A dermatologist's go-to night cream is Eucerin Face Immersive Hydration Night Cream, a rich repairer of soothing ingredients for the skin.

Step 3: Apply a Retinoid

Differin Gel or La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% is a user-friendly, over-the-counter retinoid that provides both acne and anti-aging effects. It helps speed cell turnover to allow pores to remain open and might also gradually tone and improve collagen. The buffer layer of the thin application of retinoid over a lightweight moisturizer keeps irritation from penetrating too much dryness.

Can an Over-the-Counter Routine Really Clear Up Acne?

Yes! Consistency, consistency, consistency. Using the right products morning and night can be a game-changer. "With adult acne, routine is everything," says Dr. Debra Jaliman, a dermatologist and author of Skin Rules: Trade Secrets from a Top New York Dermatologist. "It's like exercise for your skin," she says. Keeping to a daily regimen is incredibly important. All this could be kept under check through the use of, say, salicylic acid in the morning and adapalene at night.

When to Consult a Dermatologist:

If you’ve been using an OTC routine consistently for 4 weeks with minimal improvement, it’s time to see a dermatologist. Persistent acne may need prescription-strength products or treatments tailored to your specific skin needs. Dermatologists have a variety of FDA-approved topical and oral medications for moderate to severe acne, including newer options that target stubborn adult acne more effectively.

Maintaining the right balance of active ingredients and gentle, hydrating products will keep acne under control in adults and also address aging at the same time. It's all about a consistent approach and making use of products that respect your skin's individual needs.